Bologna is one of those cities that feels like it’s conspiring to keep the tourists out. It’s gritty, intellectual, and unashamedly gluttonous. And, I bet you didn’t know Bologna holds the title, “The Food Capital of Italy,” which isn’t as easy feat if you’ve been literally anywhere in the boot shaped country. Some call it the most underrated city in the world, but we prefer to call it the next “must-visit” travel destination in the world.
Day 1 – Eating Your Way Into Bologna
In Bologna, the table is church, and your job is to worship properly.
Osteria dell’Orsa -This is where you come for tagliatelle al ragù the way God intended — not the travesty you’ve been calling “Bolognese.” Packed with students and locals, the energy here is chaotic in the best way.
Mercato delle Erbe - Wander this covered market like you live here. Grab cured meats, hunks of Parmigiano, seasonal produce, and maybe a bottle of Lambrusco. This is Bologna in its rawest, most unfiltered form.
Camera di Commercio Frescoes - Slip away from the crowds and into this stunning hall lined with Renaissance frescoes. Quiet, free, and jaw-droppingly beautiful — a reminder that Bologna doesn’t need to shout about its art.
Osteria del Sole - Bologna’s oldest wine bar, no frills, no food — just wine poured with attitude. Bring the cheese and mortadella you bought at the market and settle in for an afternoon that might stretch until dinner.
Day 2 – The Intellectual and the Underground
Bologna is a city that hides its beauty — you’ve got to dig for it.
University of Bologna & Archiginnasio - Wander the oldest university in the world, peek at the anatomical theater where students once learned anatomy the hard way, and marvel at how much history is packed into this place.
Osteria Broccaindosso - One of those spots where the antipasti never stop coming. Order the lasagna verdi — green with spinach pasta, lush with béchamel — and lean back. This is comfort food done properly.
Le Due Torri - Climb the Asinelli Tower if you want (498 steps), or just stand below with a coffee and watch the world go by. These towers are crooked, defiant, and a perfect metaphor for the city.
Cantina Bentivoglio - End the night with live jazz and a plate of tortellini in brodo. Dim lights, excellent wine list, music that makes you want to stay out too late — this is Bologna at its most soulful.
Day 3 – Day Drinking and Long Conversations
This is a city that teaches you the fine art of lingering — over wine, over coffee, over life.
Caffè Terzi - Start with a proper espresso — no nonsense, no syrupy flavors, just coffee so good it borders on spiritual.
Tamburini - Grab a cutting board piled with prosciutto, salami, mortadella, and the kind of cheese that tastes like it’s been aged in a monastery. Pair with Lambrusco and you’re golden.
MAMbo – Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna - Lose yourself in Bologna’s modern art museum. Weird, challenging, sometimes unsettling — a good palate cleanser from all the Renaissance overload.
Trattoria di Via Serra - You have to book ahead, but it’s worth it. This is the trattoria you dream about: simple, seasonal, and prepared by people who care. The tortellini is a religious experience.
Day 4 – A Sunday Done Right
In Bologna, Sunday isn’t a day off — it’s a ritual.
San Luca Portico Walk - Walk the world’s longest portico (3.8 km) up to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. It’s a pilgrimage locals actually do, and the view from the top is worth every step.
Trattoria da Gianni - Settle in for a slow lunch — maybe tagliatelle al ragù, maybe gramigna with sausage — but definitely something rich and slow.
Piazza Maggiore - Sit on the steps of San Petronio with a gelato and watch Bologna do its thing. Street performers, lovers, arguments, accordion players — the piazza is the city’s heartbeat.
Drogheria della Rosa - End your trip with a dinner that feels like you’ve been invited into someone’s home — a little chaotic, a lot charming, and completely Bolognese.
